Deciding to learn to surf

Although I have always loved the Ocean and Beach i never really thought I could surf.  It was just something other people did.  But oh how I always thought it was so cool!!

Then in 2008, at about 44 years old,  I decided to rent a board from the surf shop down the street from my house in Laguna Beach.  Just to paddle around ... because the water in California is much colder than one might think.  I was missing being in the water due to the water temperature being so cold (50ies or 60ies I guess). So figured i'd just float on top to be close to it, jump off to get wet and then hop back on the board.  I felt like such an fake carrying the board across PCH.   But it was a calm day and it was pretty easy to paddle.   So i bought a cheap board (there are so many in So. Cali) and got used to carrying a board and paddling around on calm days.  A few months later I took a lesson in San Onofe with Jim.  I still felt like a fake, but at least I was comfortable in my fake-ness.   That surf lesson was when I put on my first wetsuit.  Yuckie!!!   The lesson was fine, I think I actually stood up for half a second, but I hate being cold so it wasn't fun.    I bought a wetsuit and tried a few surf days in Santa Monica.  It was okay .. but not what I was wanting out of surfing (now that I had the bug to surf).  The few times I was able to go out in Cali without a wetsuit were wonderful feelings ... being in the water.    In 2009 Jim and I googled "caribbean surfing" ... found Puerto Rico ... and the rest is history .... so nicely documented by Jim at PCH to 413 blogspot.

I have since taken lessons with three different surf instructors in Rincon, Puerto Rico.  I go out with people who know how to surf.  I have watched Shannon go from a beginner surfer to a full surfer girl -- watched her from the water surf across the wave ... so so so cool to see the view from that direction!!  But this blog title tells it all.  I am still learning and have only squatted and quickly fallen off a few waves in Puerto Rico.   But, I have become very comfortable on my board in the water of Rincon (as long as I am not trying to catch a wave).   I will tell you in this blog all the great things I learned from my instructors and surfer friends and hope to tell you how I finally caught my first wave!!!

My surfing challenge is FEAR!!!  I don't like speed.  I don't like fast cars.   I don't like snow sking.  I don't have balls!!!!   So when I took off on a wave and felt the 'elevator drop' I thought oh this can't be right.  Come to find out ... IT IS WHAT SURFERS WANT TO FEEL!!!    Shit.  This is going to take some time!!!   But no better place to learn to conquer my surfing fear then Rincon Puerto Rico!!!