Yesterday i went out twice. The late morning session (surfer speak which i love, for the period you go out to surf .. duh) was okay. The sunset session was perfection! Glassy. Small. Peaceful. Beauty.
surfing Maria's beach can sometimes make you feel like you are snorkeling while you are surfing because the water is so clear and there is so much Ocean life (rocks, fish, elkhorn coral, etc.) But why do i remember seeing elkhorn coral while i was trying to ride that wave? Because my head was down! Why did i fall off the board? Maybe, because my head was down! This is the beauty i remember seeing.
And i remember falling off every one of the 5 or so waves i caught. I feel like i have never stood before in my life. So here is what i should be doing and i will now be concentrating on. I believe i do it all wrong currently.
(1) Feet facing across the deck of the surfboard(2) Knees bent(3) Hips pushed forward placing more weight on the front leg(4) Arms up, this is your balance, if you feel yourself falling pull your lead arm back to the centre line of the deck and try to stay stable.(5) Head up and looking forward, where you look is where you go |
No comments:
Post a Comment